Even after 4 years in Birmingham I’m still finding hidden treasures. In this case, it was Lap who introduced me to Berkswell Traditional Meats (http://farmsteadmeats.co.uk/) which is so off the beaten track you wouldn’t find it even if you got lost in Berkswell. Turning into the drive you pass happy (at the moment) free-range geese and chickens. Inside it’s an Aladdin’s cave of meaty joy – Richard is cutting an amazing looking sirloin which came from a member of the 14-strong (well, 13 now) herd of Dexter cattle in Preston Bagot. A phenomenal side of White Park brisket already had my name on it, as marbled as anything I’ve seen. But the real reason to get down here is for the North Ronaldsay “seaweed eating” mutton. The shoulder I had was from a small animal but had fat galore and a beautiful dark colour. It slow-roasted up an absolute treat with some braised vegetables. For those thinking “ugh, muttony” I would counter “what lamb is supposed to taste like”. The leftovers will make a cracking shepherds pie. There’s also beef dripping and Berkswell cheese in the fridge. My new favourite butcher in the Midlands.