The best, and strangest dish I ate yesterday was at the Magpie Cafe; a dish of “cullen kipper” – some of Fortune’s lovely smoked kippers done in the style of cullen skink, all creamy with chunks of potato. This was served with the most luscious, strawberry jam, rich with toffee notes. “Do you know how to operate this, love?” I was asked. Turns out the jam and bread was “to take away the smokiness in the mouth, so you are ready for the next course”. It also filled me up a fair bit, before the Magpie Cafe’s deservedly-famous haddock and chips arrived, with batter tasting richly of beef drippings.