Yuzuya ryokan. Check your credit limit before you go through the door. Shoes off, slippers on, but then off again in order to sit on the tatami mat in our room. Tea is served, with some pickled daikon. Down to the bubbling hot onsen where whole yuzu float in a huge cypress wooden tub. Remember an onsen is for bathing, not for washing yer arrse. Back to the room for a bit of Zen. Dinner-time, more kaiseki cuisine. Kyoto sake. Copious domo arigato’s. Post-dinner bath. When you arrive back to your room, the futon is laid out for you. Deep relaxation and deep sleeps. Awake to sound of chainsaws. Japanese breakfast (rice, miso cod, pickles, dried shrimp, omelette, mushroom and tofu broth and roasted brown rice tea). Take a seat, it’s time to receive the bill. But 100% worth it for the quintessential Japanese experience.