The don and I took in the amazing scenes down at Gwangjang market, home to around 200 food stalls. There’s a huge buzz at the market which is packed with a more working-class crowd of Koreans having a rowdy old time. We ate bindaetteok (fried mung bean pancakes) – reminiscient of rosti, dipped in soy sauce and freshly made noodles and dumplings in broth. You can also have pig’s feet, gimbap, and sausages stuffed with noodles.