Last night Johnjoe and I tried to take a walk around town and see the North Seoul Tower light-show, but after 20 minutes of walking aimlessly we were tired and decided to eat. Distances between places in Seoul seem large, or perhaps we were just tired. We chanced upon a Korean BBQ place Cham Sut Goal advertising posters of lurid-coloured meat. Perfect. Here, very tender beef rib is cooked for you on a charcoal grill. You turn this into ssam by wrapping in a lettuce leaf and adding some chilli paste. Accompanying are little bowls of kimchi, herbs, salt, salad. The flavours are intense and light up the entire palette – simultaneously salty, sour and very hot. But quite different from, say, Thai food. We both agreed that kimchi has an acquired taste – just very slightly offensive in nature. It was a good meal but we were delighted to get home and crawl into our beds.